Now we were south of the major rapids it was time to relax and tour around the more populous cruising grounds of Desolation Sound. For the next few days we decided to take it easy, investigating the delights available around Cortez Island.

After a morning of admin around Heriot Bay, we headed across Sutil Channel aiming for Evans bay. As we left the confines of Drew Bay and headed out across the channel, we saw a mother humpback whale teaching it's calf to 'fish' slapping the water with her flippers and then launching herself through the stunned fish to catch them. They started their games some way away, down by Marina Island, but we were lucky to drift closer to them over the next 30 minutes or so and were treated to truly amazing natural displays of these massive creatures.

Once they had had their fill though we headed off again towards Evans Bay. On getting there we found the public wharf had some space so we tied up alongside. After meeting the locals we went for a walk in the summer sun and picked sun warmed plums and berries as we went. Walking along the 'steamboat trail' we came across what appeared to be a community area with an orchard, huts and a clay oven. On the way back we found a small bay which was overflowing with oyster beds. At this time of year, Read Island truly was a 'garden of eden' providing all the bounty one would need to live well

On heading back to the boat we again spent time with a couple of the other boat owners and then, as darkness came in a family arrived with their boat and a huge barge full of stuff. The public wharf was full though and so we ended up helping them try and unload off some very precarious piles! It turned out the family were the Stubleys - some of the original Read Island settlers and we were asked if we wanted to join them the next day.

As we settled down the wind got up and another boat turned up clearly expecting to tie up where we were. They eventually rafted up to another boat further down

The next morning we had a strong wind pushing us onto the dock and it was an exciting time getting away. At least we had learned how to 'spring off' the boat - a trick we learned up north. Without that knowledge we would have been stuck there for the day!

The rest of the day we headed to Von Donop inlet; a very long, narrow passage. Once past the very tight entrance we pulled in with a couple of other boats by the entrance to a tidal lagoon. After settling in and waiting for the tidal entrance to the lagoon to be navigable we launched the kayak and SUP and toured around in glarious weather

The next day we took it easy in the same spot. We went for another putter around the lagoon and then walked up to a beautiful fresh water lake where we swam. The water was swimming pool warm and so pure it felt like swimming in Evian

The next morning we woke early with no particular plans but decided to push on with our circumnavigation. We headed out through the inlet and then went north around the top of the island. As we went we were again treated to sharing out journey with a few humpback whales. Once over the top of the island we headed down Lewis Channel; a busy little channel with boats of all sizes going up and down it.

We got down to Squirrel Cove by early afternoon and picked our way through the other boats already anchored to find a pleasant spot. There we again sat back in good weather and relaxed, having a little paddle around as the mood took us. As the day wore on the cove filled up with more boats. We were definitely back in the holiday boating world now. A total change from the isolation of the north.

We stayed at Squirrel Cover for another couple of days before heading off on our journey further south